In the News

June 17, 2023/David Tao
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In his 26-plus years in distilling, George Teichroeb has seen whisky booms in two different countries. Now the General Manager of Alberta Distillers — known in the U.S. for their Alberta Premium 100% Rye releases — Teichroeb also spent years in Kentucky under the tutelage of figures like Fred Noe. Jim Beam and Alberta Distillers are both part of the Beam Suntory portfolio; Teichroeb’s experience in both Kentucky and Western Canadian distilling is unique in both its breadth and timing.

After witnessing Kentucky’s bourbon boom in the early 2010s, Teichroeb became GM of Alberta Distillers in time to help welcome a new age of Canadian whisky. Alberta Premium’s Cask Strength 100% Rye is perhaps the best-known example, at least in the United States. To him, the expression’s success signals more diversity in Canadian distilling, wherein cask strength and single grain releases are celebrated alongside traditional blending.

We sat down with Teichroeb to talk about his career across borders, the development of Alberta Premium’s flavor profile, and what comes next for both Alberta Distillers and Canadian whisky in general. He also gives a peak at potential new U.S. releases, including 20-plus year rye that is still only available in Canada.

Drinkhacker: Tell us a little bit about your background in the spirits industry, with Alberta Distillers.

George Teichroeb: I started in the industry in 1997. I was a maturing analyst. So what that means is really looking after aging inventory. Getting involved in the business in that part I found so beneficial because most of the flavor really takes place for whiskey in the barrel. The folks who were teaching me the business at that time, it was fantastic. It was really a different time because if you were willing to listen, they were willing to teach, and it was just amazing.

In 2005, I had a great opportunity to join mergers and acquisition. And I was involved in how we value the entire brand and also the assets that go with the brand. What do you need? You need grain, that’s going to be the most expensive part, the energy it costs to actually produce it and convert it, all those things were fantastic to learn. And then 2007 there was an opportunity to grow my experience in the industry in Kentucky.

I joined Jim Beam, the mothership, I’ll call it. I worked in Louisville for almost eight years in many different roles. Businesses were growing, distilleries were popping up everywhere. I had an office across the hall from Fred Noe of Jim Beam. Watching Fred, not only at his house, but at events and talking about the brand and the passion that he had for the history, those are the types of things that you reflect on. Fred always said, “Just don’t BS anyone.” Whether he’s just giving that advice or just saying it, I absorbed that. It was a lot about watching the folks in the business and what they’re doing. It’s helped me immensely working with and learning from people in this industry.

It was a fantastic time to network and get to see what’s happening with startups in the space. In 2014, there was another opportunity. We were looking at making some changes in Canada, specifically at the Alberta Distillers location. So in 2014/2015, I transitioned back into the Canadian operations.

Drinkhacker: What’s your perspective on the role Canadian whisky plays in the global whiskey market? How has that changed from when you started in the industry to today?

George Teichroeb: I was trying to think about this the other day when somebody asked me a similar question. When I started, Alberta Distillers was one of the very few that was doing a 100% rye whiskey. Distilling in the West wasn’t as well known. Releasing a new brand wasn’t something that a lot of distillers were doing. There wasn’t as much innovation, but by the mid 2000s, we noticed a huge influx of innovation, different styles. I’m not talking flavored whisky, I’m talking uniqueness from pot still to dropping away from continuous distillation methods to more refined methods.

We started to see cask strength specialties and different ryes. Differences in grain types, aging, barrels. There was less blending of Canadian whisky, where people were looking at being more craft style. In 2010, I was already in Louisville, and a question came up about rye whisky. I think the stats back then, there were probably only about a hundred thousand case sales of the rye category in North America. Five, six years later, there’s over a million cases, and the category has continued to explode.

Rye typically is associated with Canadian whisky. But in Canadian whiskey rules, there doesn’t actually have to be rye grain to call it a Canadian whisky. But people associate rye with Canadian whiskey. And the good fortune of being with Alberta Distillers is that we’re really heavy on the rye and we like what that that does for the whisky. Our maturation process is a little different being 3000 feet above sea level.

There is value in the flavor profile, and back then, people were finally starting to be interested in it. I think today I’m seeing a bit more of a shift where all types of spirits are looking towards blending to enhance the flavor profile. That has been really favorable for Canadian whiskey.

Drinkhacker: Let’s talk about bringing the Alberta Premium expressions to the United States, specifically the cask strength rye. Tell us a little bit about the thought process.

George Teichroeb: For cask strength, to do that, we wanted to highlight the best of what we do in whisky. We had to ask what was true to our rye whisky, what’s the best. We believed it to be pot still, and we also wanted to age in brand new wood. The typical Canadian whisky is aged in a barrel that’s been used several times. Even in the base expression of Alberta Premium, we use some pot still product, but the cask strength was really to let people know how good a cask strength can be, so it’s all pot still.

And when we released it, to give the consumers that firsthand taste of what comes out of a barrel, and truly to have that maturation of pot still, 100% rye product: we hoped it would be a success, but it was fantastic and beyond what we expected. It was overwhelming. We didn’t realize it was going to be as popular as it was, so now we’re in a position where it’s going to be limited release for quite some time. We love the response that we got, and it’s just a testament to what our facility can do.

Drinkhacker: Having visited the distillery, I’ve seen some pretty impressive age statements from Alberta Distillers in barrels and on Canadian shelves, 20 year old product up to 30 year old product. Should we expect in the coming years in the United States? Any more expressions, including age stated expressions from Alberta Distillers?

George Teichroeb: Yes. But I’ll say timing is always the key for us on that. We’re a 76 year old company, and we’re in a bit of a growing state. That’s fantastic. As we roll these things out, we want to be mindful of not losing sight of what Alberta Distiller’s values are in creating our brand. The goal isn’t just to release older spirit now. It’s about what we can give our consumers as an experience that they haven’t had before.

‘Alberta Premium Cask Strength’ produced by Alberta Distillers, named ‘World Whisky of the Year’

Pamela Fieber · CBC News · Posted: Sep 17, 2020 12:25 PM MDT | Last Updated: September 18, 2020
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A smooth, Canadian whisky made in Calgary has been named best in the world by the prestigious Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible.

‘Alberta Premium Cask Strength’ produced by Calgary-based Alberta Distillers, was named ‘World Whisky of the Year,’ by Murray in his Whisky Bible 2021.

George Teichroeb, general manager of Alberta Distillers, told CBC’s The Homestretch that the news is still sinking in.

“It’s incredible, we’re still feeling the effects of the news,” Teichroeb said. “And I don’t know if it’s fully sinking yet. We knew when we released it that we would be shaking things up maybe a little bit in the Canadian whisky market, but to be called World Whisky of the Year — wow.”

The whisky is made with 100 per cent rye grain, and water from the Rockies.

The renowned whisky reviewer, who releases his Whisky Bible every year, wrote that Alberta Premium Cask Strength is something to truly worship.

“Well, Jim Murray, I don’t think he lies too much, it is fantastic,” Teichroeb said with a laugh.

“Releasing a cask strength is something where you put it all out there. This relies on your process from grain, right through the maturing process. So, we didn’t think it was a risk because we have a lot of pride and we stand behind our our product … it’s an incredible product.”

The review process is stringent. But Alberta Distillers has been on the radar before — Alberta Premium was named “Canadian Whisky of the Year” in Murray’s 2006 through 2009 Whisky Bibles.

But this time, it’s on the world stage, beating out roughly 1,200 whisky selections.

“We’ve been doing 100 per cent rye grain since 1946. And I mean, that’s our primary ingredient and it’s sourced locally and we’re proud of that,” he said. “About 85 per cent of all of our rye grain comes from within 300 miles of Calgary.”

The distillery has its own enzyme lab.

“That’s specific for what we require, to turn the starches for a rye grain. It is heavier in protein, so it’s that’s one of the key things that our guys keep telling me, that having that lab to be able to produce those enzymes is critical for that process,” he said. “And running it through a pot still and then using new white charred oak barrels. And that process, that’s where the magic happens.”

The distillery started in 1946, and has been producing a number of spirits but has always specialized in rye.

“[The majority] of all North American rye comes from two primary sources and one of the distilleries in Indiana and the largest is here in Alberta and not very well known. But anybody in the whisky business knows that if you have a hundred percent rye grain whisky, it’s probably coming from Alberta.”

The award will mean more people seeking out what is already a limited edition product, launched last November.

“Unfortunately, when you age spirit, we would have had to have this vision, you know, five, 10 years ago,” Teichroeb said. “From what I understand, it did go off shelves pretty quickly. I think it’s probably in limited supplies in Calgary right now, but we’ll see what the future has to offer.”

Joseph V Micallef  – Contributor | Updated Jul 21, 2022, 10:14am EDT

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Over the last decade, rye whiskey has had an incredible renaissance. According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the US (DISCUS), between 2009 and 2022, volume grew from 88 thousand 9-liter cases to just under 1.6 million cases in 2021. Revenue grew from roughly $15 million to $318 million, an 1800% increase in volume and a 2,120% increase in revenue.

At the heart of the American rye whiskey revival have been two historic distillers: Alberta Distillers in Calgary, Alberta and Midwest Grain Products (MGP) in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. Their stocks of aged rye whiskeys have been the basis for dozens of new rye bottlings.

In some cases, their historic stocks were blended with younger, craft distillery-produced spirits, while in others, it was subjected to various additional cask finishes to give it a more complex aroma and flavor profile.

Alberta Distillers produces rye whisky for its proprietary branded expressions and resale in bulk to other producers. Whistle Pig’s award-winning 10 YO Rye Whiskey, 50% ABV, was sourced from Alberta Distillers. Other producers who have sourced their rye whiskey from Alberta Distillers include Masterson’s, 35 Maple Street, Jefferson’s 10 YO, and Lock Stock and Barrel’s 13 YO and 16 YO expressions.

Recently we sat down with George Teichroeb, General Manager of Alberta Distillers, to talk about the distillery’s award-winning rye whiskeys. We also wanted to discuss the aroma and taste profile differences between Canadian rye whisky and American rye whiskey and Alberta Distillers’ plans for the rye whisky category.

JM: Canadian rye whisky has a very different aroma and flavor profile than American rye whiskey. Canadian rye is often smoother and softer. Moreover, the spice and fruit flavors seem less assertive, especially the typical rye cinnamon, clove spice, and stone fruit notes. Is that a fair assessment? What are the sources of these differences?

GT: That’s a very fair assessment. At Alberta Distillers, we use an unmalted rye grain which means we get a lot of the sweeter parts of the grain going into our mash bill. That gives the whisky those spicy fruit flavors you’ll detect as you sip. These unmalted rye grains are also subject to the unique climate in Alberta, which is noticeably harsher than other southern regions that produce rye. This harsh climate results in inevitable stress on the grain, contributing to the uniqueness of flavor and that signature spice.

JM: Alberta Distillers has been a primary source of aged rye whisky for many craft distillers in the US. Often this liquid is subjected to either or both additional cask finishing and aging. Do you think this is sufficient to create a liquid with a unique aroma and taste profile, or is there a lowest common denominator, a consistent DNA that comes through on all Alberta Distillers sourced rye whisky expressions?

GT: There is a consistent DNA that will be apparent in all Alberta Distillers rye whiskies, which comes firstly from our unique rye source, using that 100% unmalted Canadian Prairie rye grain and adding it to our own unique enzyme cocktail.

It’s here in these early stages that these key flavor characteristics begin to form. The flavor profile is further developed and refined within our three different barrel sources – ex-bourbon barrels, once-used bourbon barrels, and the new white oak charred barrels. Within these barrels, that “DNA” evolves, and those flavors become more and more apparent.

We also use two different distillation types to build the DNA further – continuous distillation and the pot still. The combination of all these components creates and develops unique characteristics within the liquid as we craft our whisky. This unique process is not something you would generally not find at another distillery.

JM: Do you expect Alberta Distillers to continue to be a significant source of rye liquids to the craft distillation sector?

GT: It’s unclear how the landscape in the industry will evolve in the coming years. I know that we will continue to be a notable and prominent contributor within the sector and produce our award-winning liquids for our consumers.

JM: Some American craft distillers are experimenting with historical varieties of rye grain. These varieties tend to have more protein and less starch. Is this an area that Alberta Distillers is considering? How do you think historic rye varieties shape the aroma and taste profile of rye whisky?

GT: Alberta Distillers is not currently looking at other sources of rye grain. We will continue with 100% Prairie rye grains, predominantly from Alberta, because we find that the growing conditions for rye are perfect for our needs.

The other thing to consider is that we also created our own enzyme ‘cocktail,’ while most other distilleries use a commercial enzyme. Our unique enzymes, combined with the distinctive characteristics of our unmalted rye grain, begin to affect the flavor profile at those early stages in the mash bill.

As the grains ferment, a reaction and a convergence occurs with those enzymes, which is where those distinct flavors first develop. Knowing our enzyme ‘cocktail’ allows us to create the flavor we’re historically looking for, we currently see no need to consider other grain varieties.

JM: You’ve recently released Alberta Distiller’s Premium Rye Whisky in the US. You termed this the bestselling rye whisky in the world. What kind of volume are you shipping of this rye whisky in Canada and elsewhere.

GT: That’s correct! Alberta Premium is currently the No. 1 selling rye whisky worldwide based on the 2021 IWSR Drinks Market Analysis.

We started with a baseline shipment for introducing Alberta Premium and plan to increase our output over the coming years. We were very excited to launch Alberta Premium into the US and are looking forward to American consumers becoming more familiar with this great Canadian whisky.

JM: Compared to the typical American rye, especially those with very high rye mash bills (90% or higher), are there any significant differences in how Alberta Premium Rye is made or the variety of rye grain? Used?

GT: Whenever you have a high rye mash bill that is not 100% rye, something will be introduced to the liquid that will impact it. Alberta Premium is a genuine 100% rye whisky.

We use 100% Canadian Prairie rye grain and create our proprietary enzymes to work with the rye grain during mash, cooking and fermentation. The liquid is then aged in a combination of three different barrels, each allowing the liquid to infuse and develop those different flavor notes from the wood varieties, resulting in our signature award-winning whisky.

JM: Rye grain grown in colder climates often produces whisky with more pronounced spice notes. What is it about northern latitudes that give their rye grain this quality?

GT: Good question! Typically, the northern climates experienced here in Alberta are harsher. We experience the extremes of all seasons, including very hot and dry summers, to incredibly cold and arid winters. Plus, Calgary, Alberta, is also over 3,000 feet above sea level.

This elevation contributes to a generally drier climate throughout the year. These harsh weather conditions influence and affect the soil and the grain itself and essentially add “stress” to the growing conditions, resulting in a more “hard-working” and resilient variety of rye. This specific rye grain ultimately gives that spicy flavor profile.

Below are tasting notes on the Alberta Distillers’ Alberta Premium Blended Rye Whisky, 40% ABV, 750 ml. and the Alberta Distilers’ Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye Whisky, 65.1% ABV, 750 ml.

Both ryes are very flavorful whiskies. Based on a mash bill of 100% Alberta-grown rye grain, they are matured at an altitude of 3,300 feet above sea level in new, No 4 charred oak barrels. The pronounced daily and seasonal diurnal variations in temperatures combined with the significant variations in barometric pressure results in deeper penetration of the spirit into the cask wood and greater flavor extraction.

The company does not disclose the age of the rye whisky, but it is believed to be approximately five years old. Note that the expression usually available in the US is the one bottled at 40% ABV. The cask strength version is bottled at approximately 62 to 67% ABV. It is generally only available in Canada, although it can occasionally be found in the US.

Both expressions feature pronounced aromas of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg on the nose. These are often referred to as “rye spices.” There are additional notes of stone fruit and some tropical fruit, especially mango and hints of ripe banana, along with a touch of baked apple. There are also vanilla and brown sugar/caramel aromas and a touch of mint. Both whiskies have a noticeable alcohol aroma when first poured, but this note fades quickly.

The whiskey has a candied sweetness reminiscent of a caramel apple on the palate. The expected rye spices carry through to the palate, as do the fruit notes. There are also additional fruit notes of fig, prune, and orange zest, although these are more pronounced in the cask strength version. As the whisky opens up, there are more pronounced notes of cooked rye grain (think rye toast), some walnut notes, and a bit of chocolate.

The finish is long with lingering fruit, cinnamon and nut notes and persistent maple syrup-like sweetness. A slightly drying, bitter note at the end complements the sweetness nicely.

Adding a bit of water enhances the creaminess of the whisky, which, combined with the pronounced vanilla notes, gives it a crème brule-like quality. However, this is more noticeable in the cask strength version.

The cask strength version typically retails for around $65/bottle, while the 40% ABV version retails for about $30.

Not surprisingly, the aroma and taste profile of the two whiskies is very similar. Overall, I think the cask strength version is more flavorful, showcases a richer fruit profile and offers more palette complexity than the 40% ABV expression.

Cheers

Kate Dingwall – Contributor | Sep 30, 2022,09:00pm EDT

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In 2020, the ground beneath the whisk(e)y industry shook over the fact that not Scotch, nor a bourbon, nor even a Japanese whisky earned top honors at one of the biggest whiskey awards.

It was a Canadian rye.

Out of the thousands of bottles tasted through for the annual awards, Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye was crowned the very best.

For fans of the category, this shouldn’t come as a surprise. Excellent rye has been made in the country for close to a century. Look at Alberta’s landscape: Low, flat plains of golden crop fill the province, save for on the West side, where mountains reach the sky and glaciers trickle icy, pure water down to the plains. Tell me a better place to make whisky.

Now, Alberta Distillers Limited (owned by Beam Suntory) are rolling out a dedicated high-rye brand: Reifel Rye.

The flagship bottle is aged in charred white oak and former bourbon barrels, and in true high rye characters. It’s beautifully structured, with a perfect mingling of spice and stone fruit, with a hint of banana bread and soft leather. It’s light on its feet, lacking the bolder oiliness of its Southern cousins.

The name is a nod to George H. Reifel, the man and master distiller who laid the groundwork for Alberta Distillers 75 years ago. Alberta Distillers owners Frank McMahon and Max Bell were having huge problems distilling rye, so they brought in Reifel; a brewmeister who had spend years distilling in Japan.

He can also be credited with cracking the rye whisky code — ADL was one of the first distilleries in the world to create a 100% rye whisky.

Said rye has been their bread and butter for 75 years, until they upped the ante in 2019 with the release of their own cask strength rye. It was a big move for them — ADL has had a hand in several award-winning bottles south of the border, including Masterson’s and Whistlepig, but this was their first real premium product under their own label.

The bottle sent critics and whisk(e)y into a frenzy. It took home high honors at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the Canadian Whisky Awards, (plus other awards that will go unnamed). That pivot to premium from the behemoth distillery marked a greater focus not just on really good rye, but really good rye under the ADL name.

“The astonishingly rich flavors of Reifel Rye demonstrate why Albert Distillers Limited is the world’s leading producer of 100% rye grain whisky,” says Canadian whisky expert Davin de Kergommeaux. “Canadian distillers know how difficult rye grain is to work with, and how much whisky lovers revere the spicy flavors of rye done right.”

Distillery Manager George Teichroeb (who conveniently shares the first name of ADL’s whisky godfather Reifel) finds “the launch of Reifel Rye holds a special place in my heart for many reasons. Not only is the liquid incredible from being aged in New White Oak charred barrels and ex-bourbon barrels, but the heritage and story of the Reifel family gave us an opportunity to honor 3 generations who helped craft rye whisky in the west and pave the way for Alberta Distillers Ltd. We are unbelievably proud of this project and hope the rest of Canada is too.”

While large in scale — ADL has over half a million barrels aging— there are threads of craft that flow through the distillery. For one, they still dump their bottles by hand – two men carefully lead the barrels down the conveyer belt and hammer in the bungs by hand. Proprietary enzymes are grown in an onsite lab by staff microbiologist Shannon Thomas — they give ADL’s rye that purity and lightness, among other defining characteristics. 92% of the grains are brought in from Alberta farms, and the remaining from just over the border in neighboring provinces. Then factor in the ideal climate: 3,2000 feet above sea level, surrounded by fresh mountain air, and bordering fields of grain, and you’re set up for some good whisky.

Bottles retail for $50 Canadian (approximately $36 USD). For now, the release is limited to Canada (as most good Canadian whiskies are) with rumblings of US expansion down the road.

Maggie Kimberl | July 6, 2022

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When it comes to rye whisky there are several styles that have survived or are making a comeback. Most people have had the 95% rye, 5% malted barley made by Midwest Grain Products bottled as various brands. Kentucky-style ryes like Wild Turkey, Jim Beam Rye, and Heaven Hill’s Pikesville and Rittenhouse boast considerable corn contents and are often referred to as “accountant’s rye,” made that way because of the cost of the rye grain itself and the prevalence of corn in Kentucky. Pennsylvania Rye tends to be made with just rye and malted barley, as does Monongahela rye.

But many Canadian whisky brands are known for producing component whiskies, that is whisky made entirely from one grain, aged in separate barrels, that are only combined during the blending process pre-bottling. At Alberta Distillers, 100% rye whisky is bottled as Alberta Premium, the number one selling 100% rye whisky in the world, according to General Manager George Teichroeb, and it’s finally being released in the United States.

“Aside from us being able to call it the number one selling 100% rye whisky in the world, we love that, I’m sure the US market is going to be very kind to it,” says Teichroeb. “I had the good fortune of calling Louisville home for almost eight years. After getting a sense of what people want in the heart of bourbon country, I think it’s going to be fantastic. Everybody that I’ve shared it with so far really appreciates it. I’d really like us to see that do well in that market, and being a 75-year-old company, being able to enter the US market at this stage, I’m really looking forward to this.”

History of Alberta Distillers

Alberta Distillers has been around more than six decades, but its location signaled a shift for Canadian whisky producers.

“Alberta Distillers started in 1946,” Teichroeb says. “We’re in the foothills of the mountains, and at that time, most of the distilleries were out east in Ontario, so it’s a very different climate, very humid. But in Alberta, Frank McMahon was looking for an elevation change. We’re over 3000 feet above sea level, and it’s a dry air. For maturation is going to have an entirely different impact on our whiskies as opposed to whisky out East. In 1946, McMahon saw this 42 acres that we sit on today, it was just on the outskirts at that time of Calgary, right in the heartland of rye grain country. and we have a major malting facility less than a mile away, and we’re also surrounded by ranches and farmers and feed lots. It was the ideal spot, and the abundance of natural resources including being one of the first, I believe the first, distilleries in Canada to run on natural gas, and then also the abundance of glacier-fed water that we have here made it the perfect spot.”

Single Grain Whisky

But making whisky out of a single grain can be tricky. Different grains have different enzymatic potentials, which is why American whisky makers often combine them. Corn has very poor enzymatic potential, which means it lacks enough enzymes to break the starches down into sugars so the yeast can convert it into ethanol. That’s why Bourbon and other whiskies with lots of corn need at least 10% malted barley in the mash — to reach the full sugar conversion. Rye grain and wheat grain contain moderate enzymatic potentials but generally would need to be malted in order to unlock it. And in fact, many distilleries are starting to make malted rye whiskies, which contain high amounts of malted rye grains, sometimes as much as 100%.

But Alberta Distillers unlocked a different method decades ago through the manufacturing of enzymes that can be added to the rye grain mash to gain a fuller conversion to ethanol.

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Distillers around the world are now producing rye whiskey, which is actually quite fitting since its roots are in Europe.

To be a native son of Pennsylvania is to be the heir to a long tradition of rye whiskey. Starting with Bomberger’s Rye Whiskey (later to become Michter’s), which was said to have “warmed the Revolution.” The Whiskey Rebellion was almost certainly brought to a boil by Pennsylvania stills full of rye mash. And in 1810, Abe Overholt started making his Old Overholt Rye Whiskey in Pennsylvania, which now can claim the honor of being America’s oldest brand of whiskey.

I first visited Michter’s in 1987, when it was still humming. It was a seminal moment and I embraced rye whiskey as a proud Pennsylvanian. But the category almost tragically died in the mid-1990s. Every year there were fewer rye drinkers around and just a handful of distilleries producing a token amount of it. It still saddens me to think how close we came to losing rye altogether.

So as a proud Pennsylvanian, it has been wonderful to witness the rebirth of American rye whiskey. Now, most major distillers are making the spirit, and it’s a signature of the craft distilling movement and the rebirth of the cocktail.

But this Pennsylvanian whiskey, this American whiskey, turns out to be…well…not all that American after all. Distillation of rye actually came to the United States by way of German immigrants.

“It’s entirely a German transplant,” said David Wondrich, the noted cocktail and spirits historian and a Half Full colleague). “The first mention of distilling rye in America is in correspondence between people in the Massachusetts Colony in 1648, where one of them asks about the ‘German recipe’ for making rye whiskey.”

The letter, which is in the collection of the Massachusetts Historical Society, is from Emanuel Downing in Boston to John Winthrop “at Pequoyt,” dated April 13, 1648. “I have even now sold my horse to James Oliver for 10 to purchase the still, I pray remember me about the German receipt for making strong water with rye meall without maulting of the Corne…”

He then writes, most immodestly, in October of 1648 that “I haue wrought in stilling these 3 moneths, the water I mak is desired more & rather then the best spirits they bring from London.”

“Germany had a well-established industry of making spirits from rye,” Wondrich said. “They’d been doing it for a long time.”

And now you can buy rye whiskey from the Eifel Distillery in western Germany, near Luxembourg. The whisky is made from a mash bill of 90 percent raw rye and ten percent barley malt. It is distilled in a column still and then a pot still—much like the American rye whiskey made at the big distilleries. It is aged in a different variety of barrel each year: sherry, Bordeaux grand cru, Laphroaig or whatever the brand can lay its hands on.

If this twist in rye whiskey history wasn’t enough, to complicate matters, Dutch settlers also helped shape the spirit. Wondrich notes that the Dutch were the first to industrialize distilling, and that there was definitely Dutch distilling in the U.S. Through the mid-1800s, the liquor these immigrants produced would have been genever, which was made from two parts rye and one part malted barley. A kind of Dutch rye! While it’s not called whiskey, it’s very, very similar.

“Rye grain has always been part of Dutch distilling history,” says Patrick van Zuidam, who runs his family’s eponymous distillery in the Netherlands. He knows a thing or two about the grain, since in addition to genever he’s now making actual rye whiskey. “The Dutch have been distilling rye into genever long before our Scottish friends started distilling their water of life.”

And it’s not just that the Dutch are fond of rye grain but there are other important similarities to Pennsylvania. “In the Netherlands, we used to have lots of farms on poor sandy soils,” he said. “In the south where we are and in the east of Holland, nothing much wanted to grow except rye. Rye is a hardy grain that doesn’t need much in the way of nutrition and water, so it endures where other grains fail. So, rye was often available and therefore it was distilled.” Sounds exactly like why southwestern Pennsylvania farmers made rye whiskey in the late 1700s.

Zuidam’s Millstone Rye ($100) was the first European rye whiskey I tasted and even though that took place seven years ago it was a revelation for me: oily, rich, intensely grain-forward. It’s distilled twice in old-fashioned pot stills, which conserves the rye flavor as much as possible.

While Dutch rye whiskey might sound like a unique oddity, an often-overlooked sign of consumers’ sudden interest in the grain has been a crowd of new rye whiskies made all over the world.

In Denmark of all places, Stauning is distilling a rye whisky that’s now available in the U.S. Hans Martin Hansgaard, one of the nine folks who founded the distillery, explained just how new an idea that was when the company started up. “There is no tradition for whisky making in Denmark,” he said, echoing van Zuidam. “The reason we started making rye whisky is basically a love for American rye whisky. One could say that rye bread is defining for Danish food culture. We took the bread and bottled it. It is not as fierce, fiery and spicy as an American rye, but it is very smooth, very complex and the flavors of the rye [and] barley really shine through. You can smell and taste the kinship to the dark roasted bread.” To me it is a cleanly-flavored, approachable rye, reminiscent of open skies and fresh winds.

Even Canadian whisky, long known as “rye” but often (and unfairly) derided by American whiskey aficionados as not having “enough” rye, has stepped up to the bar with 100-percent rye whiskies.

“Our Canadian Prairie rye is, in my opinion, some of the best rye grain you can get,” stated George Teichroeb, the general manager of Alberta Distillers Ltd. (ADL) in Calgary. The grain is “grown with care by local farmers and nourished by nutrient-dense, glacier-fed spring water from the Rocky Mountains. It’s incomparable.”

It’s so good that ADL makes whisky with only that rye: no malted rye and no malted barley to provide the enzymes needed for converting the starches to fermentable sugars. “We use home-grown enzymes, versus malted grain enzymes, which tame the rye and allow us to control the mashing, fermentation and distillation process,” Teichroeb explained. “That’s why we can run 100 percent rye 100 percent of the time.”

But it’s ADL’s new Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye ($75) that has turned American whisky skeptics into Canadian whisky believers. It’s cask strength, more than 60 percent alcohol by volume and rocking with flavor. The second edition is out now and people who got to try last year’s are looking forward to it. “It was crafted to provide our whisky fans with the purest form of our 100-percent rye whisky: straight from the barrel,” said Teichroeb.

Another Canadian rye got a lot of press back in 2015 when it was touted as the world’s best whisky. Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye may or may not not be the “world’s best” (if there can even be such a thing), but at 90- percent rye and with the blending expertise of Crown Royal behind it, the whisky is certainly worthy of your consideration.

But the latest major player in the global rye whisky category is also the most unexpected: Johnnie Walker.

The famous Scotch brand just released Johnnie Walker High Rye ($35). This isn’t a whole new whisky, but rather a focus on something they already do very well. Blended Scotch is made from a mix of single malts from different distilleries and so-called grain whisky. What is the difference? Single malt is made from only malted barley in a pot still and grain whisky can be made from a number of different grains and produced on a column still. So for this High Rye Johnnie, grain whisky made with a large percentage of rye was blended with a mix of single malts. Kind of like blending Scotch with Pennsylvania rye.

The label for this new Walker names some of the “signature distilleries” that provided the single malt – Cardhu, Caol Ila, Clynelish, Glenkinchie–as well as Cameronbridge, which made the grain whisky. It’s very unusual to see Cameronbridge on a label, since it is the enormous and practically anonymous grain distillery that powers much of Johnnie Walker.

Cameronbridge is one source of the “High Rye” in the whisky’s name. The other, surprisingly, is Teaninich, one of Diageo’s biggest malt distilleries. Teaninich has no mash tun, but uses a mash filter, and I can’t help wondering if this old-is-new-again technology is why they chose to distill the “difficult” grain there.

Johnnie Walker whisky specialist George Harper gets shared creator label credit on the High Rye along with revered blender Jim Beveridge (who recently announced his retirement). “Because we are using malted rye at Teaninich,” Harper said, “the rye spirit produced there is actually a pot still-distilled single grain.” Malted rye needs no barley malt to convert the mash, so it’s a single grain. So if it was malted barley instead of rye, it would be a single malt, not a grain whisky. That’s a neat little thing!

But, of course, the most interesting thing about Johnnie Walker High Rye is the whisky itself.

Taste it next to the classic Johnnie Walker Black Label, and the difference is clear. The High Rye has the sweet malt and fruit of the iconic Black, with just a hint of the familiar smoke, but the rye gives it a youthful liveliness and a crisp edge. As Harper said, “this will be a great whisky for people who enjoy rye whiskey and are looking for a unique, new expression of rye flavor.”

That’s what I learned from this tour of non-American ryes. Not all rye whiskies have to taste the same or even similarly, and new hands, new minds are finding new flavors in this old ingredient. We’re just getting started on what this quirky grain can deliver in a glass, and it’s an education to taste what’s out there now.

Rye is rising, and the future is positively kaleidoscopic.

Jonah Flicker | October 6, 2022

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Last spring I had a chance to try the strongest whiskey I’ve ever tasted. It wasn’t some high-octane barrel-proof bourbon, or new make scotch fresh off the still or even one of the recent ABV bombs that Jack Daniel’s has unleashed upon the masses. No, this was a 23-year-old single-barrel Canadian rye whisky, as unlikely a suspect as that might sound. And despite this liquid clocking in at a staggering 84 percent ABV (168 proof), it was actually sort of, kind of weirdly drinkable. Not that I’d recommend anything more than a tiny sip or two, of course, but surprisingly my tongue didn’t burst into flames and I was even able to pick up some notes of spice, caramel and a hint of grape candy.

The setting was one of the warehouses at Alberta Distillers Limited (ADL) in Calgary, part of the Beam Suntory conglomerate and one of that country’s largest distilleries and most prolific producers of Canadian rye whisky. Many people think of whisky from our northern neighbor as being a blended product, and this is often correct as some of the most popular bottles fall into this category—Crown Royal, 

Black Velvet and Canadian Club, for example. And “rye” is often used as a catch-all term for Canadian whisky, even when there’s only a small percentage of that grain in the mash bill (or none at all). But there are distilleries focused on making 100 percent Canadian rye, such as ADL.

Alberta Distillers

Canadian and American rye whisky and whiskey are very different, so here’s a quick primer: American rye whiskey must be made from a mash bill of at least 51 percent rye, with the rest usually made up of corn and malted barley (although producers like MGP in Indiana make 95 percent or 100 percent rye as well). American rye must be aged in new charred oak containers and cannot have any additives if it’s labeled as “straight.” Canadian rye, however, can be aged in different types of barrels (for a minimum of three years), and there’s an old rule that allows 9.09 percent of another barrel-aged flavoring spirit to be added to the blend. Caramel coloring is often, although not always, added to the whisky for consistency, similar to scotch.

Even if the name Alberta Distillers is unfamiliar, you’ve likely tried the whisky before. Some brands that bottle rye from ADL include WhistlePig, Masterson’s, Lock Stock & Barrel and Pendleton. There are 21 warehouses onsite that hold nearly half a million barrels, so there’s more than enough whisky for other brands to purchase (even though reps for ADL won’t really talk about it because of NDAs). ADL claims to have the largest column still in Canada, and indeed it is a beast that stretches a couple of stories from top to bottom. Rye whisky is produced in this and a large pot still at the distillery, each giving the whisky its own unique character and flavor. Three different types of casks are used for maturation—multi-use barrels that have previously held Canadian whisky, ex-bourbon and new charred oak.

Alberta Premium, the distillery’s core expression, is aged in a combination of all three barrels. This whisky is hugely popular in Canada and around the world, but only recently arrived in the US.  The cask strength version (aged solely in new wood) launched here first in 2020, and has proven to be a favorite among critics and consumers. This seems like a calculated move to initially introduce American whiskey drinkers to a product that’s a bit more complex and spicy, and then hope the sweeter, softer, lower-proof version will catch on—something that remains to be seen.

About that jet fuel-strength rye whisky I tasted—at 23 years old, you might expect the ABV to have mellowed out instead of skyrocketing to such great heights. But distillery manager George Teichroeb attributes this to the unique Alberta climate. “What makes us different is we’re 3,200 feet above sea level,” he said. “We have dry mountain air, we do not have humidity to deal with. We don’t have to deal with moisture problems, other than rain. We actually pick up strength as we age our products. The moisture and water escapes as part of the angel’s share instead of the ethanol, which is really different than in other parts of the country. Does it add to the flavor? Scientifically we can’t prove it, but you can’t get that same profile in Ontario, for example.”

So even if you wouldn’t deign to pop open a bottle of cheap Canadian blended whisky, consider giving 100 percent Canadian rye a try. There are a wide range of styles, age statements and flavor profiles to choose from, so here’s a primer of some of the best you can find.

Alberta Premium Cask Strength

Alberta Distillers

There have been two releases of this high-proof rye whisky from ADL over the past two years (the third is on the way this fall), and the reception has generally been quite positive. The ABV is up there, ranging between about 65 and 66 percent depending on the bottle. Even so, it’s surprisingly drinkable, and really worth trying as a side-by-side comparison with the regular Alberta Premium now that it’s available in the US as well.

Pendleton 1910

Pendleton Whisky

Pendleton is a whiskey brand based in Oregon, but the liquid itself comes from Canada—and while the source is not revealed, it’s safe to assume that the distillery is ADL. This expression is aged for 12 years and though it would be nice to try this at a higher proof than 40 percent ABV, this is a good sipping whisky with notes of leather, caramel, fruit and cinnamon on the palate.

WhistlePig PiggyBack Rye

The Whiskey Reviewer | October 2022

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Alberta Distillers, has announced the return of its fan favorite Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye. The 2022 release of the 100% Canadian rye whisky marks the third installment since its introduction to the U.S. in 2020, which is once again available for a limited time starting this month.

Crafted and distilled in Calgary, Alberta, Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye is made from 100% Canadian Prairie rye. The liquid is 100% pot distilled and aged in new white oak barrels. The resulting liquid is balanced with unique flavor nuances, including smooth vanilla, black currant, and spice.”Our cask strength release has continued to capture the attention of whisky enthusiasts globally and is something we’re delighted to bring back this year,” said George Teichroeb, General Manager of Alberta Distillers. “For distillers like myself, cask strength whiskies are where we get to demonstrate our skill and craftsmanship, as the final product is completely unadulterated. This liquid is a product of that craftsmanship and our ongoing commitment to delivering world-class 100% rye whisky.”

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North of the border they’re a little more creative with brown spirits

(Editor’s note: If you’re reading this on July 1, happy Canada Day. Below, our Canadian writer explains why she prefers whisky from the Great White North.)

There are a lot of tropes that surround Canadian whisky. 

Perhaps you think it only comes in a purple velvet bag. Maybe it’s high-rye whisky — full of spice and best sipped during cold Canadian winters. Or maybe it’s a watery, breezy blend that you sip quickly from a shot glass.

But Canadian whisky (no “e,” eh?) is a surprisingly broad and creative category. Unlike American brown spirits, there are few rules or regulations that command the category, so distillers have complete creativity over what they produce. There are over 300 distilleries across the country turning out everything from peat-packed single malts to aged expressions made from ancient Canadian grains.

Not to mention Canada is an excellent place to make whisky. The middle of the country is almost entirely flat — just miles and miles of grains — while the Northern parts are filled with incredibly fresh glacier water. 

Canada is also rather lawless with methods of production. Canadian whiskies don’t require mash bills or age statements on their labels — they are only required to have a minimum age of three years in barrel. That’s it. While American whiskey is distilled from a mashbill (for example, Jack Daniel’s mostly follows 80% corn, 8% rye and 12% malted barley), Canadian whisky is fermented, distilled and matured separately…then blended to make the final product.

“As a category, Canadian whisky breaks down the myth that blending isn’t good,” says George Teichroeb, the general manager for Alberta Distillers. “Blending isn’t a bad term! It ensures that you’re picking the best quality spirit to make the finished product — you’re checking the barrels for quality and exploring what you can do at the blending stage. This gives Canadian whisky uniqueness.”

“We also have the flexibility of the columns,” continues Teichroeb, who also runs an online rye education center to help spread the gospel of Great White Whisky. “We have three different types of distillation methods: continuous distillation, batch column and pot still. We’re also not regulated for what strength we pull off — we can go as high as 96% if we wanted to.”

These factors give the distillers and blenders a huge amount of autonomy — space to run wild with blends, ages, grains and barrels. Some are playing with sherry casks and creative finishes while others are opting for seldom-seen grains as the base of the spirit. Even the ryes are a far cry from those found Stateside, typically showing spice and fruit balanced with a certain leatheriness over the banana-sweet notes of American rye.

So maybe we should pay a little attention to our neighbors to the north?

But that’s often not easy. If you can only list off a handful of Canadian producers, that’s not your fault — eight mega distilleries, including Alberta Distillers, Canadian Club and Hiram Walker, make 99% of the country’s whisky. 

In honor of Canada’s birthday, celebrate with a few need-to-know bottles (where available, we’ve provided a few Drizly links, but some of these you may have to travel north of the border to purchase).

Devine Distillery Ancient Grains

Over in British Columbia, Devine Distillery pulls cues from Canadian distilling history, working with ancient rare grains like spelt, emmer, Khorasan and einkorn. The individual spirits are blended together and then aged in used American oak (barrels are saved to make genever down the line). It’s odd and interesting — there’s a bit of Canadian whisky’s signature spice but a rich herbaceousness to it.

Take note that distilling in British Columbia isn’t easy. In 2013, the B.C. government set new standards for local distillers. To be declared a “craft” spirit, the distillery must ferment its own base alcohol and use only raw agricultural material grown in the province. Tough, but if distillers can meet these requirements, there are plenty of laws and tax breaks that help motivate producers; subsequently, the province has seen a huge boom in hyper-craft spirits over the last decade.

Shelter Point

Also on Vancouver Island, Shelter Point narrows in on single-origin bottlings made with glacier water and distilled through pot stills. Their single malt is made with 100% malted barley (grown on their estate) and aged in charred American Oak barrels on the Salish seaside to impart oceanic characteristics of the whisky. Keep an eye out for their aged expressions, including a 10-year-old single malt aged in barrels smoked with driftwood for a salty, iodine twang.

Pike Creek 10-Year-Old Rum Finish

One example of Canadian whisky’s quirkiness is this high-corn whisky finished in rum barrels. It’s got notes of vanilla and pineapple that are predominant thanks to the rum, with a bit of earthiness from a touch of rye added to the final blend. 

Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye

This Calgary distillery has been making some of the world’s most category-defining rye for over 75 years. It was crowned the best whisky in the world a few years back; one sip travels from subtle to spicy to smooth, from plantain and cinnamon sugar to a deep oakiness on the finish.

Forty Creek Double Barrel Reserve

A step up from the entry-level Forty Creek, blender Bill Ashburn produces rye, corn and malted barley whiskies and marries them in first-fill bourbon barrels for this double-barrel bottling. There’s a bourbon-ish sweetness, with mellow notes of toasted pecan, vanilla, coconut and citrus. Bourbon drinkers, start here. 

Lot No. 40

An easy introduction to the category is through one of the quintessential Canadian bottlings. It’s 100% single pot still rye with immediate notes of earth that leads into a subtle apple sweetness. It’s got the signature rye spice of cardamom and coriander, plus a full body that makes it a stellar base for cocktails.

Sheringham

On Vancouver Island, Sheringham also works with heritage grains like whole-grain red fife wheat — the oldest strain of grain in the country (initially brought over from Scotland in the 1800s). It was primarily farmed out for more commercially capable grains until a group of fervent bakers brought it back. Drops of these bottlings are few and far between, but well worth the price of a plane ticket.

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Alberta Distillers, one of the first distilleries to create a true 100% rye whisky, is proud to introduce a limited-edition cask-strength whisky to the U.S. market: Alberta® Premium Cask Strength Rye. Originally released in Canada earlier this year, the limited-edition rye is crafted and distilled in Calgary, Alberta using pure 100% prairie rye mash bills and Rocky Mountain water. The result is a perfectly balanced liquid that reflects the brand’s Canadian heritage and expert whisky craftsmanship.

Making a name for itself in the Canadian market, Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye comes to the U.S. after being sold out for months in Canada. Whisky fans can taste the purity in every bottle, distilled from the finest Canadian prairie grains grown by local farmers and refreshing glacier-fed Rocky Mountain spring water. This limited-edition, 100% rye is a very sippable whisky, best enjoyed neat with a drop of water or on the rocks.

“Alberta Distillers prides ourselves on being the producer of the world’s number one selling 100% rye whisky in Alberta® Premium,” George Teichroeb, General Manager of Alberta Distillery said. “We wanted to release a cask strength rye so our whisky fans can experience a 100% rye whisky in its purest form: straight from the barrel. This whisky truly is a great representative of our commitment to crafting superior rye whisky.”

The original Canadian release of this whisky left a mark on experts and consumers alike this past year, earning accolades such as Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Best Cask Strength at the Canadian Whisky Awards and Gold at the Canadian Whisky Awards. It’s also crafted at the distillery that was awarded the Distillery of the Decade by the Canadian Whisky Awards.

Packaged in an eye-catching, faceted glass bottle, Alberta Premium Cask-Strength Rye features the below characteristics:

• ABV: 63.9% – 66.0%
• Color: Amber gold
• Aroma: Sweet, woody and oaky with a hint of vanilla
• Taste: Exceptionally smooth with notes of caramel, vanilla, and just a hint of chocolate that balance the spiciness of rye and black currant
• Finish: Smooth and lingering with the complexity of spice, warm vanilla and dark fruit

Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye will be available across the U.S. in very limited quantities with a suggested retail price of $69.95 for a 750ml bottle. For more information on Alberta Distillers visit www.albertadistillers.com.

About Alberta Distillers
Founded in 1946, Alberta Distillers continually sets the gold standard for Canadian spirits, offering distinguished quality at an affordable price. Pure Rocky Mountain water and rich prairie grains—grown by farmers who have worked with us for decades—create the hearty foundation of every handcrafted liquid we make. We’re proud to be locally made using only the finest local ingredients. Experience the incredible strength and flavor that can only be found in an award-winning collection like ours. In addition to Alberta Premium, the Alberta Distillers portfolio also includes Banff Ice Vodka, Alberta Pure Vodka, Alberta Springs Whisky, Windsor Canadian Whisky, and Banff Ice Summit Vodka. Visit www.albertadistillers.com for more information.

About Beam Suntory, Inc.
As a world leader in premium spirits, Beam Suntory inspires human connections. Consumers from all corners of the globe call for the company’s brands, including the iconic Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark bourbon brands, Suntory whisky Kakubin and Courvoisier cognac, as well as world renowned premium brands including Knob Creek, Basil Hayden’s and Legent bourbon; Yamazaki, Hakushu, Hibiki and Toki Japanese whisky; Teacher’s, Laphroaig and Bowmore Scotch whisky; Canadian Club whisky; Hornitos and Sauza tequila; EFFEN, Haku and Pinnacle vodka; Sipsmith and Roku gin; and Midori liqueur.

Beam Suntory was created in 2014 by combining the world leader in bourbon and the pioneer in Japanese whisky to form a new company with a deep heritage, passion for quality, innovative spirit and vision of Growing for Good.  Headquartered in Chicago, Illinois, Beam Suntory is a subsidiary of Suntory Holdings Limited of Japan.  For more information on Beam Suntory, its brands, and its commitment to social responsibility, please visit www.beamsuntory.com and www.drinksmart.com.